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PrintAutumn Evenings on the Farm
My favorite evening of the year on the farm looks like this: the sun sets on the horizon to the west of us. To the south, a harvest moon glows against a rich blue sky. In the fields closest to our house, Dad’s pumpkin and winter squash patches burst from the earth, their vines intertwined with voluptuous fruits in vibrant shades of orange, yellow, and green. A chilly breeze is in the air and the first rain of the year has dampened the earth, creating an aroma like no other. I take in this serene setting as I select a good-sized butternut squash for supper.
Although winter squash is named after the season that follows, it is plentiful in fall, too. Several varieties are available, the most popular being the pumpkin, of course, followed by butternut and acorn. I like the kabocha squash, with its rich, sweet, and nutty flavor, just as much as the better-known varieties. Add a little to your Sunday pancakes along with some cinnamon and nutmeg and you’ll have a savory and festive breakfast.
My favorite way to enjoy all winter squash is to purée them into bisque. On an overcast, chilly evening, a bowl of this soup with some warmed bread for dipping is the perfect way to bring warmth to your family’s stomachs and hearts. Enjoy!
Butternut Bisque
6 cups vegetable or chicken stock
6 cups butternut squash, peeled and cubed
1 medium Granny Smith apple, peeled and chopped
1 large onion, chopped
1 1⁄2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
pinch of rosemary
fresh ground pepper
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
3 tablespoons dry white wine (sauvignon blanc works nicely)
2 egg yolks
1 pint half and half
Combine stock, squash, apples, onion, sugar, salt, rosemary, and pepper in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until squash is tender, about 1 hour. Purée squash until very smooth. Return to pan and bring to a boil. Melt butter in another heavy large saucepan over medium-low heat. Whisk in flour and cook for 3 minutes. Whisk in squash purée. Simmer for 5 more minutes. Mix in wine. Beat yolks and cream in a small bowl. Blend in some of the soup. Whisk mixture back into the soup. Re-warm if necessary, but be sure not to boil.
Becky Herbert is the owner of Eating with the Seasons, an agriculture program that delivers local organic food to residents all over the Bay Area. Visit her website at eatwiththeseasons.com.
