Moseying in Moss Landing
Thirty miles south of Santa Cruz, the hamlet of Moss Landing is a cluster of unpretentious antique shops, homespun art galleries, roadside knick-knack stands, marine research centers, and slapping-fresh seafood restaurants. A mecca for wildlife lovers, Moss Landing and adjacent Elkhorn Slough are home to record numbers of land and shore birds, frolicking sea otters, and barking sea lions.
BIRD THE SLOUGH Rated as one of the top 100 places in the United States for birdwatching, Elkhorn Slough is the largest tract of tidal salt marsh outside of San Francisco Bay. More than 300 bird species reside or migrate through, including endangered and threatened birds such as the brown pelican, California clapper rail, peregrine falcon, and California least tern. Elkhorn Slough Reserve offers five miles of trails. Free docent-led walks are offered on weekends. 831.728.2822, elkhornslough.org, closed Mon.-Tues.
CRUISE THE WATERWAY For easy wildlife-watching, there’s no work involved in cruising on Elkhorn Slough Safari’s 27-foot pontoon boat. Just sit back and enjoy the show, which typically includes dozens of harbor seals and sea otters and up to 50 different species of birds. Captain Yohn Gideon will help you spot and identify them all. 831.633.5555, elkhornslough.com.
OGLE THE OTTERS There may be no better place in all of California to observe sea otters playing, feeding, sleeping, and caring for their young than just off the Jetty Road parking lot at Moss Landing State Beach. Here, a calm lagoon of water is favored by these furry, frolicking creatures. It’s not uncommon to spot 50 otters within a 200-yard stretch of water. 831.649.2836, parks.ca.gov.
EAT WITH THE FISHES Phil’s Fish Market serves up a dizzying array of fresh fish in ultra-casual, order-at-the-counter style. Artichokes are prepared six ways, including fire-roasted and stuffed with garlic. On warm days, carry your plate out the back door to Moss Landing’s sandy beach. 831.633.2152, philsfishmarket.com.
PADDLE A KAYAK From the seat of a kayak, observe sea otters, harbor seals, and water birds at eye level. Even novice paddlers can quickly master the basics needed to propel their craft around the calm waters of Elkhorn Slough. Go on your own or sign up for a guided two-hour paddle. Monterey Bay Kayaks, 831.373.5357, montereybaykayaks.com or Kayak Connection, 831.724.5692, kayakconnection.com.
SLEEP IN A BOAT The 1906-vintage Captain's Inn B&B, once home to the Pacific Coast Steamship Company, is now a nautically themed inn. The “boat beds” in the newer river-view rooms are the real deal—converted fishing boats, canoes, and catamarans. A big breakfast and other goodies are included in the rate. 831.633.5550, captainsinn.com.
Do you love a leisurely drive along the Northern California Coast? Then explore these laid-back beach destinations: Davenport, Moss Beach, Capitola, Pescadero.

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