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Four miles southeast of Santa Cruz, but psychologically a world apart, lies the charming seaside town of Capitola. A throwback to a more genteel era when late 19th century travelers came by train to spend their holidays, Capitola is notoriously crowded in summer but nearly deserted in winter. January is perfect for wandering the town’s rows of terra-cotta-colored storefronts, strolling the white sands of Capitola Beach, and meandering along the Soquel Creek footpath.
STAY Housed in the 1901 railroad station, the Inn at Depot Hill offers 12 guest rooms, each with its own motif inspired by romantic international locales (Delft, Stratford-on-Avon, Paris, Portofino). Bathrooms have double showers or tubs, so two isn’t necessarily a crowd. 831.462.3376 or 800.572.2632, innatdepothill.com
MUNCH Beckoning the throng at Gayle’s Bakery and Rosticceria are the aromas drifting in from the ovens—the siren call of a schnecken ring smothered in walnuts and the fruity lure of olallieberry pie. For some hearty nutrition, try the spit-roasted meats, soups, and salads. 831.462.1200, gaylesbakery.com
DINE When dining at Shadowbrook Restaurant, getting there is half the fun. A cable car ferries patrons downhill from the parking lot to the creekside dining room. Arrive while it’s still daylight to admire the ferns, waterfalls, and stone walkways in the gardens, then choose from a formal meal in one of the main rooms or a lighter entree in the 1940s-era lounge. 831.475.1222, shadowbrook-capitola.com
CAMP At New Brighton State Beach, 111 campsites are perched on the coastal bluffs, amply shaded by Monterey pines, cypress, and eucalyptus. For a taste of luxury, flush toilets and coin-operated showers are available. This stretch of coast was once called China Cove, after the Chinese fishermen who built a village here in the 1870s. 831.464.6330 or 800.444.7275, santacruzstateparks.org
TOUR Pick up a Historical Walking Tour Map at the Capitola Historical Museum, a tiny cottage filled with historic photographs, 1920s swimsuits, and antique fishing gear. Then follow the map: explore the galleries and shops that line the beachfront Esplanade and take in the view from the historic wharf. 831.464.0322, capitolamuseum.org
Do you love a leisurely drive along the Northern California Coast? Then explore these laid-back beach destinations: Davenport, Moss Beach, Moss Landing, Pescadero.
